AKC herding tests and trials are enjoyable and provide an outlet for exhibiting your herding dog.  Completion of the requirements at each level leads to a title.  This is different than other herding venues in which most Border Collie trainers compete and appeals to some since you can judge your progress as you meet the requirements for titles at each successive level and progress from test through trial classes as you train your dog.  You can start at any level and move your dog up to the next higher level in the same weekend in which you finish a title!

Contribute!

Information on this page is devoted to running dogs in and handling sheep on test courses and on A and B trial courses (see page note).  In addition comments from Border Collie handlers and recomendations for AKC trialing is given.  All comments are welcome as well are articles of general interest to Border Collie owners.  If you would like to contribute to this page, contact Richard Whorton.

Border Collies are eligible to show in AKC tests or trials.

Test classes include Herding Tested (HT) and Pre-Trial Tested (PT). 

Trial classes are divided into three types; 1) All-around Farm Trial - A Course, 2) Open Field Trial - B Course, and 3) Tending - Grazing Trial - C Course.  Each of these trial courses is designed for specific herding capabilities.  For example, the A Course is patterened after Austrailian Shepherd trials and designed to demonstrate versatility in a herding dog in a small arena.  On the other hand the B Course is patterned after ISDS type "Border Collie" trials and is designed to demonstrate control of live stock in a open area. Border Collies excell in both A and B courses and are usually run on these courses.  At this point, A courses are well established and are by far the most frequently offered. 

INDEX:
AKC Herding Tests
  Herding tested
  Pre-trial tested

AKC Trial Classes
  General Info

Walk throughs
  A Started
   A Intermediate
   A Advanced
  B Started
  B Intermediate
  B Advanced

Suggestions

General Handling

Herding Tested - First Level Test Course:

The Herding Tested course is designed to demonstate controlled movement of the stock with a couple of changes in direction (read AKC regs) and a call-off (recall the dog from the sheep).  The pen in which the test is conducted is very small (usually 100 ft x 100 ft, oval).  A big issue for successful handling is having a dog that will work somewhat off the sheep - at something other than on their tails.  You don't need an outrun, but your dog should understand that he should be on the opposite side of the sheep and fetch them to you. Of course he should also have a some concept of balance and wear. You are allowed to do whatever is reasonable to get the dog behind the sheep at the start of the run. Most Border Collies that have had a few basic lessons handle this test level reasonably well.   The biggest problem frequently seen is with the call-off.  The judge will give specific instructions as to how he would like the call off done, but, you should have a "that'll do" command that works.  Don't expect a dog that comes reliably under normal conditions to respond when he is working sheep.  You should train this command using a long line if necessary to make sure that the dog will stop working and come to you when commanded to do so.

Pre-Trial Tested - Second Level Test Course:

The Pre-Trial tested course is designed to test the ability of the handler and dog to move sheep, under control, through a specified course (read AKC regs).  Two panels, a stop and a re-pen are added to demonstrate this control.  The size of the ring is small (100 ft x 200 ft) and, as is the case for HT, you are allowed to do what is reasonable to get the dog behind the sheep.  A short outrun and fetch would certainly be useful.  As with most successful trialing, it is important to get the sheep off to a nice start to have a smooth run.  Buggering them up at the beginning with a slashing, dashing, slice ‘em up outrun won't help.  However the big advantage to the PT course it that you can move the sheep along the fence through the entire course. If your dog has any concept of balance, he should work to hold the sheep to you.  The fence provides an additional help to control the stock.  On this course, the dog needs to have a down behind the sheep.  If the sheep are moving too fast or trying to pass you, you should lie the dog down and control the stock with your body and crook.  You can also back towards the fence, which should signal your dog to flank out (away from the fence) and hold the sheep to you and the fence.  As you get to the panels, it is important to keep the dog off the stock.  The same applies for the stop and change in direction.  The re-pen is really quite easy, since it is more of a problem keeping the sheep from bolting to the gate.  Some judges will ask that you attempt to hold the sheep off the gate while you open it, but most don't.  While a call-off is critical on the HT course, a down (steady, stand or stop) while working is important on the PT course.

Although A courses are relatively easy for a trained dog to negotiate, they present challenging situations that are fun to work through.  Perhaps the most difficult aspect of the A course is its confining size.  Unfortunately few are large enough to truely evaluate whether or not a dog is controlling/working the stock.  A skilled handler with a dog that will move away from the handler's pressure (yelling/threatening, etc) can get the sheep around an Started A course.  It's actually a shame, since dogs that do not herd, can pass.  I have seen only one A course that comes close to the maximun size (200 ft x 400 ft).  This particular course is considered very difficult by owners of non-Border Collies, but is very easily managable by a trained dog.  However, the small size of the arena can present interesting problems for Border Collie handlers.  Most sheep used in AKC trials have not been worked by strong eyed dogs.  When they experience their first Border Collie, they are usually ready to move - to the other side of the arena.  The small size doesn't give the dog enough room to get adequately behind the sheep so that he doesn't rattle them.  This is obviously compounded by fast zippy dogs.  One of the hardest manuevers on an A course is to take the sheep off the fence in the intermediate level (see below) and start a drive across the arena through the center panels.  By the time you have the line established, the sheep are at, or past, the panels!  However as with the PT test course, the fence is your friend and helps you keep the sheep on course.

The B course is very similar to Border Collie trial courses (ISDS type). However, there are several differences.  In general the outruns are shorter as is the distance to the drive panels.  In all levels (started through excellent) the sheep are moved to a shedding ring after the pen.  Only at the excellent level is a shed required.  The started level is roughly analogous to novice-novice levels offered at some Border Collie trials.  At the started level, the sheep are moved through two sets of panels before taking them to the pen.   Unfortunately, few clubs offer B courses.  There are several reasons.  Most importanly, they either don't have the experience or helpers to offer B or they simply don't have the room.  This course fits the Border Collies natural instincts and is more comfortable for both the handler and the dog.  If you are interested in participating in B course trials, you have to get involved and help!

Outrun, lift and fetch (Position 1):
The started course is always arranged pretty much the same no matter who is giving the trial.  The entrance for the handler and dog can be located anywhere along the perimeter.  Since you must leave the leash at the gate, you will have to move your dog to the handler's post off leash.  Once you are settled, the sheep are brought into the arena and placed about 30 feet from the handler's post.  As you face the sheep, the arena and gates/chutes are to your left and a fence is on your right.  The setout people will usually try to leave as soon as the sheep are placed at the setout point.  At one trial, the sheep where basically shoved through the gate. No real attempt was made to set them out on grain.  You can send your dog on an outrun in either direction.  Of course with the fence on your right, most people choose to send the dog come bye.  See below for handling on the outrun.

Turn at the post:
As the dog lifts and fetches the sheep to you, you should keep the sheep on your right as they move around the handler's post.  After the turn, you are allowed to wear or drive the sheep through the course.  With a Border Collie, the easiest thing to do is let the dog wear as you move around the course. Remember to start moving from the post as the sheep begin to initiate the turn so that you are moving down the fence towards the Y-chute as they finish.  Keep the dog in position to hold the sheep to you and to the fence (12 ft lane - see regs).  Keep moving and remember to keep the dog under control.  Points are taken off each time the sheep stop.

Y-Chute:
You cannot walk through the Y-chute.  As you and your dog bring the sheep to the chute, move close to the perimeter fence near the opening of the chute.  As you move left towards the fence the dog should move right to cover.  Put the dog down (or stand) to hold the sheep on the fence as you move away and around the mouth of the chute.  Usually as you move around to the exit of the chute the sheep will follow.  If not ask the dog up and let him push them through.  You don't really need flank commands if you remember to get into position so that the dog's natural balance puts the dog in the correct position to move the sheep to you and through the obstacles. This might become a difficult situation with a very strong eyed dog since the dog may continue to hold the sheep on the fence and not let them move at all.  In this case you might want to keep the dog further back and keep things moving.

Corners (Positions 2 and 3):
You are allowed to move the sheep along the fence, make a right angle and head for the Z-chute, or just cut the corner (take the 45 degree angle).  You must do the same on both corners.

Z-Chute:
You should handle the Z-chute like the Y-chute.  Sometimes the sheep don't like to go into the opening so you should be patient and don't panic the sheep.  Take your time (and tell the dog to take time too).

Parallel Gate:
The parallel gate is somewhat more difficult that the Y and Z-chutes since you don't have a gate to "funnel" the sheep in.   Again you can't go though.  If the sheep are really dog-broke, they might want to follow you around the side.  In this situation, it is useful to have a flank command on the dog so that you can position the dog to move the sheep off you, towards the opening.

Cross Panels:
After the sheep leave the parallel panel, you move them along the fence to position 4.  At position 4 you should move the sheep off the fence across the field through the center panels and on to position 5 at the opposite side.  The biggest problem here is that with a fast, zippy Border Collie, moving the dog between the sheep and the fence can spook the sheep if the dog it too close or too fast.  You should give your dog a steady command (or a strong down) to give the sheep a chance to move off without the dog putting too much pressure on them.  You might even want to make the turn in stages.  As you back away towards the center of the field, do so at a 45 degree angle to start with.  As the dog starts to cover, down him before he gets all the way to balance and wait till the sheep move off the fence.  Then back away closer to the line connecting position 4 and 5 and ask your dog up.  As he covers and comes to balance, down him and allow the sheep to complete the turn.  Then ask him up and wear the sheep through the center panels and on to position 5.  Remember that in some arenas the pressure/draw to the re-pen gate is pretty strong so that the dog will have to stay on the pressure to keep the sheep on line.  Again flanks might help you keep control in this situation.  Most importantly, the dog has to work the sheep calmly and stay off them.  With this said, it can be hard to do.  One big problem for strong eyed dogs that move quickly is that the arena is too small in many cases for the dog to be off far enough to give the sheep room to settle.  By the time you have things in control (or have fixed whatever went wrong) you could easily be past an obstacle.

Re-Pen:
For the re-pen you move the sheep from position 5 to position 6.  The judge will give you instructions about how he wants the sheep held prior to opening the gate and penning the sheep.  Obviously the biggest problem will be to keep the sheep away from the gate.  Have a plan in mind.  The easiest thing to do is go to the gate, face position 6 or the position where the judge wants the sheep held, call the dog to you and have him down facing the sheep.  You can then open the gate, making sure the dog is holding the sheep for the specified time, flank him and pen the sheep.  Ask the judge about handling at the gate.  Most judges agree that open, is open, no matter if the gate is only open 1 foot. The more you open the gate, the more enticing it will be for the sheep.  If you wait till you have it all the way open, the dog may have a hard time holding the sheep and you will loose points if they break.  Once you flank the dog to pick up the sheep, you can open the gate further.

General handling:
There are several places where you can loose lots of points on an A course.  You will certainly loose some points for off line.  But the major points will come if the sheep reverse course (3 pts).  You also loose 1 point per head if the sheep miss an obstacle.  One of the biggest mistakes novice handlers make is to retry an obstacle.  If you do, you will loose at least 3 pts for course reversal, 5 pts for missing the obstacle in the first place (1 pt/head) and maybe some points for off line.  If the missed obstacle was the center panel, you could easily loose more than 10 points (20 points possible) and get a non-qualifying score.  Moving the sheep back and forth in front of the re-pen gate can also lead to a non-qualifying score if you loose too many points.  The best idea is to keep the sheep moving forward on the course and don't retry obstacles.

Outrun, lift and fetch (Position 1):
The sheep are brought in and positioned off the fence somewhat to the left of the center panels.  The rules state that the stock should be 30 feet off the fence and 12 feet to the left of the center panels.  However, this is rarely done.  At one trial, the sheep were basically dumped into the arena and became yours as the gate was closed.  The size of the arena greatly limits the room your dog has to negotiate an outrun and lift.  If you have a fast moving dog, even it he tries to keep off the sheep, it will be difficult for him to get far enough behind the sheep to accomplish a nice controlled lift.  It is your job to judge what the stock are doing, or anticipate what they will do and control the situation by controlling the dog.  It might be a good idea to stop the dog short of covering and flank him again to cover after the sheep move off the fence.

At the handler's post you may send the dog left or right.  Both directions should be open and your decision will depend on where you think the pressure is.  Since the fetch is very short, you might consider sending the dog to the right so that if anything, the sheep will be either on-line or to the left of the line.  This will make it much easier to get the sheep on the left hand side of the handler's post to make the required counter clockwise turn and to start the drive to the Y-chute.  Remember to be an active part of the outrun, lift and fetch.  You should give flanks and use your body language to help the dog control the line and keep the sheep under control.  A big lean to the left can really help your dog move right.

Turn at the post:
The sheep should move counter clockwise at the handler's post.  Hopefully you have controlled your sheep well enough so that they are not running.  Keep your dog back, off the sheep and give him flanks to the turn and point the sheep towards the Y-chute.  Watch the sheep rather than the dog!  Have the dog walk-up and start the drive.  Remember to keep the sheep moving smoothly.  At some trials the sheep may be so dog broke that they stick to your knees and don't want to move.  In this case a weak dog or inexperienced dog can easily be challenged and the drive difficult to initiate.  The best advice for handling in this situation is to keep the stock moving and don't let them stop at the handler.

Y-Chute:
As you approach the Y-chute, the dog should be on balance.  Keep the line from you to something just in front of the opening of the Y-chute.  Don't push the sheep to hard at this point.  If you do, they may squirt to the left away from the Y-chute.  Slow the dog down and be ready to give a soft come bye flank as the sheep drift towards the fence and the Y-chute.  Give the flank and stop the dog to keep the sheep from coming around the opening of the chute.  As soon as they enter the mouth of the chute, get the dog up and have him push them through.  As with A Started, you need to practive handling in this situation and keep the dog in position to block movement in any direction other than through the chute.  Once all the sheep have left the Y-chute you may leave the handler's post.

Corners (Positions 2 and 3): 
You can take the sheep from the Y-chute directly to the Z-chute across the diagonal or into and out of the corner of the arena.  Whichever you do, you must do at both corners.  Since you can now go to the dog (but not out of the intermediate handler's zone), you can be closer and encourage the dog to drive the sheep into the corner.

Z-Chute:
Once the sheep are near the corner, you basically have to crossdrive the sheep across the far end of the arena through the Z-chute.  You should handle the Z-chute in a way that best accomodates what your dog is capable of regarding a crossdrive.  You can stay behind him and walk along at the boundary of the intermediate handler's zone encouraging the dog to drive.  In this way, he is driving the sheep away from you (not really a crossdrive).  For dogs just starting to drive, this might be a more familar situation and he will be less tempted to abort the crossdrive and fecth the sheep to you.   On the other hand you might move quickly to a position opposite the Z-chute and well ahead of the dog so that the dog is doing what amounts to a fetch/drive.  If you do this, the dog must be able to take flanks on the fetch to keep the sheep off-line, on the fence and through the Z-chute rather than bring them directly to you without hitting the Z-chute. This strategy might thus be risky for most young Border Collies who will undoubtedly have a strong fetching instinct.  Remember when you started teaching the dog to drive that the hardest thing to do was to stop him from bringing the sheep back rather than driving them away.

The trick to the Z-chute as with the Y-chute is not to push the sheep to hard.  If they appear nervous, let them settle a bit before you move them through.  Some handlers relie on flanks to force the sheep to move where they want.  Gentle nudging works much better.  Sometimes a bunch of fast flanks which block nervous sheep from running, makes them even more nervous.  It might become necessary to stop the dog and let the sheep settle.

Hold/Exam Pen:
Bring the sheep out of the corner to the pen.  You should position yourself at the corner of the opening so that the dog basically fetches the sheep to you.  Use a flank to keep them from passing the pen and move them in.  Once the sheep are in the pen, put the dog down, let the sheep settle and wait for the judge to say, "That's a pen".  After the pen, you will need to move the sheep from the pen to Position 4.  You have a couple of options for moving the sheep out.  What usually works best is to flank the dog to the back of the pen (outside!) as you move to the back corner.  Once the sheep have cleared the mouth, flank the dog away-to-me and have him catch and fetch the sheep to you.  If you flank him come-bye, the sheep are likely to go back in the pen.  Moving to the back corner of the pen is also helpful in keeping the sheep from re-entering the pen as the dog fetches them to you and allows you to do a mini-fetch to set up a drive to Position 4.   Some handlers prefer to send the dog into the pen to move the sheep out.  This is risky for several reasons.  First its a tight situation and one where the dog might grip.  Second, it might not be a good idea to teach the dog that they can go in and move them out.  They might be tempted when you had rather that they didn't.  Of course, if the sheep won't leave the pen, you might have to use the dog to force them out.

Center Panels:
This appears to be one of the most difficult obstacles on the intermediate course.  The dog needs to move the sheep off the fence at position 4, cover the pressure if the sheep want to run back to the set-out point (re-pen gate), and start the drive towards the center panels.  Many times after this is done the sheep are past the panels or too close to fix the line.  You also have to be aware of where the intermediate handler's zone ends so that you don't cross it.  As the dog completes the drive to Position 4, it is a good idea to remain behind the dog near the pen.  That way (as was the case for the Z-chute, the dog is still driving the sheep away from you.  Use small soft flanks to nudge the sheep off the fence.  Give the flank and a "there" or "down" command to stop the flank short.  Allow the sheep to drift off the fence and begin to settle before you give the next short, soft flank.  If you allow the dog to flank all the way, he may spook the sheep (not much room between the fence and the sheep) or may cover them and bring them back to you.  Once you have the drive started, you can move along nearly behind the dog and have him drive them through the panels to Position 5.  The other option is to get to a point near the handler's post as the dog is driving the sheep to position 4. The drive through the panels becomes more of a crossdrive in this case but you'll have to be careful that the crossdrive doesn't turn into a fetch.  When you get the sheep to Position 5, be careful to keep the dog on the away-side of the sheep so that they don't drift back to the Y-chute (a course reversal).  Keep them moving steadily to Position 6 as you move to the re-pen gate.

Re-pen:
The judge will instruct you as to where he wants the sheep held.  As you get to the gate, call the dog in position to hold them off, while you open the gate slowly.  Have a plan for how you want to handle the re-pen.  Moving and readjusting the sheep once you get in position will cost you points.  Set the dog in postion, wait till the sheep seem settled then open the gate. Again, open is open and having the gate open by a foot or so may be enough to satisfy the judge. Wait a few seconds (or whatever the judge tells you), flank the dog, open the gate wider and collect your green ribbon.

Outrun, lift and fetch:
The only difference between the advanced outrun and the intermediate outrun is the distance.  You can send the dog in either direction.  However, it is still a tight situation at the top.  But, the dog has the whole field to get wide.  Frequently the sheep will start drifting away from the fence as the dog does its outrun.  This will free up some room at the top so that the dog can get behind the stock, cover them and start the fetch.  Depending on what the sheep are doing it is a good idea to make sure the dog steadies at the top with a down, or with a steady command (if you have one that works).  Use your body language (leaning, crook, etc) and flanks to keep the fetch straight.  Keep the dog off the sheep.  As the sheep reach you, slow them down as best you can and flank the dog come-bye to move the sheep to your left to initiate the turn.  Turn with the sheep as you watch them.  Keep the dog off and flank him to keep the turn tight.  When you have the sheep facing a point just past the opening of the Y-chute, have the dog walk up and start the drive away from you.

Y-chute:
Handling at the Y-chute is critical to getting the sheep through the chute.  It is a good idea to have them somewhat wide as you approach the chute so that the turn into the chute can be gradual.  You should also drive them far enough past the chute so that as you make the turn, you can put the sheep on the fence, then turn them into the chute.  Soft flanks and good stops will be necessary to keep the sheep turning and prevent the dog from fetching the sheep back to you.  You will have the most success if the sheep are moving calmly.  Handling through the chute can be tricky.  With the dog in the chute rather than on the outside, the sheep have a tendency to turn to the open field after they exit.  If you can, it is a better idea to have the dog drive the sheep from outside the chute.  This is not necessarily difficult since they might feel the pressure of the fence (the sheep wanting to turn off) and the dog may set up on the drive on the far right of the sheep keeping them moving forward in a straight line on the fence.

Corners (Positions 2 and 3): 
Continue the drive out of the Y-chute, make the corner with soft flanks and move the sheep to the Z-chute.  Be careful in this situation to stop the dog is they try to bring the sheep to you rather than crossdrive them trough the Z-chute.  It is also a good idea to start the turn out of the corner well before the sheep get there.  You can flank your dog away and down him when he gets to the fence.  Don't let him get completely behind the sheep or they may bolt out into the open field.  Be prepared to give an away flank or call your dog to you to keep the sheep on the fence after they complete the turn and are past the corner.  Remember the sheep will naturally drift in the right direction if the dog is down on the fence behind them.

Z-Chute:
To do a nice job at the Z-chute the dog should understand the crossdrive   He should be able to take inside flanks and move to keep the sheep on the fence during the crossdrive.  Keep things moving calmly and don't push the sheep too hard.

Hold/Exam Pen:
After you get the sheep to the corner (Position 3) and they start toward the hold/exam pen, you can move from the handler's post to the corner of the pen and help the dog get the sheep in.  After the hold, you can get the sheep out as described for the intermeditae course above.  After the sheep are out you can move to the back corner and handle the dog to Position 4 and the crossdrive through the center panels from there.

Center Panels:
The crossdrive through the center panels can be done as described for the intermediate course.  When dealing with this tight course and moving the sheep off the fence at position 4, start the turn gradually using soft flanks and stops.  Nudge the sheep on line though the panels.  As the sheep reach position 5, leave the hold/exam pen and walk directly to the re-pen gate.  At the same time you can have the dog drive the sheep to position 6 and hold them there.

Re-Pen:
As you get to the re-pen gate, open it partially, pause then flank the dog and pen the sheep.

Outrun, lift and fetch:
The outrun on B started is between 40 and 100 yards.  While the 30 yard outrun is not much more than a short gather, the longer outruns allows a Border Collie to run wide and get well behind the sheep.  The premium list will give the distance of the outrun usually stated as percent of maximum.

At the post you may send your dog left or right.  You should read the field and the sheep and decide what is best for your dog.  A couple of things should be kept in mind, esecially for longer outruns.  The easiest outrun would be a flat run with a clear view of the sheep all the way out.  Hills, dips, etc., may obscure the dog's view of the sheep and make it somewhat more difficult for a young dog.  The lay of the land will also affect how the dog and sheep might run.  Sending the dog up a hill, might not be a wise decision. Uphill outruns tend to be flatter and tighter.  The slope of the hill might force the dog into the sheep. Remember to handle the dog on the outrun if you need to.  Depending on the dog, you might have to slow him down at the top with a stop or steady command or stop him on the pressure.  Lifting the sheep under control is the secret to a controlled run.  It the sheep lift off line, you will need to use your body, crook and flanking commands to correct the line.  If the sheep move off line too far, you might loose fewer poionts if you bring the sheep back to the original line and then down the field to you.  This of course is easier said than done.  To accomplish this, the dog will have to take flanks on the fetch and move them off the new fetch line (straight from where the dog turned the sheep to you) back to the original line.  This is usually hard for a young dog since he will generally want to fetch them directly to you.

Turn At The Post:
Most B Courses, require a clockwise turn at the handler's post to set up the wear to the lefthand panels.  As the sheep approach the post on the fetch, slow them down.  Flank the dog away to his right to move the sheep to your right.  Keep an eye on the sheep as you turn, and start backing away towards the panels.   You should start moving towards the panels as soon as the turn is started.  Don't wait until the sheep are well into the turn since they will get past you before you can start the wear to the left panels.  You can slowly position yourself behind the handler's post as the dog brings the sheep to you such that the sheep will move behind the post.

Panels:
The B Course is a ‘line' course meaning that the judge will take off points if the sheep are not on line between obstacles.  If you are given the opportunity to walk the course prior to your run, it is a good idea to identify some land marks (a tree behind the handler's post that is on line with the line between the center of the panels and the post.  That way as you are wearing the sheep towards the panels (backing up) you will have a point of reference to keep the line straight.  You should do the same for all the other lines.  The most important thing on the wear is to keep the dog back, off the sheep.  Use a stop or steady command to control the dog and sheep.  You can also use your crook (taping the ground - not the sheep) to keep the sheep off of you.

The judge should judge where the sheep are going.   You do not have to walk the same course.  As you get to the panels, it might be a good idea for you to turn before the panels if it looks like the sheep will move on through.  If you have already moved to the line connecting the left and right panels all the dog has to do is control the sheep, turn them and fetch them to you again.  Handling the turn in this way allows the dog to make a nice tight turn with the sheep without knowing flanks - just balance.   Of course, if the sheep are very heavy, slow moving and on your feet, it might be best for you to go through the center of the panels before you turn so that the sheep don't miss the panels altogether.  After the righthand panels, set up the line to the free standing pen.  If will be important for a successful pen to have the sheep under control and as calm as possible before you get the sheep to the pen.

Free Standing Pen:
The opening of the free standing pen is usually facing away from the course so that you are bringing the sheep either to towards the back or side of the pen.  This makes it somewhat difficult to set up the sheep, since you have to hook them around the side to get them in.  You should stop the sheep well before you get them to the pen and let them settle.  Line the sheep up so that you and the gate form a wall that helps the dog move the sheep into the opening of the pen.  Play your role and help block the sheep and keep them from running past the opening.  You have to keep the sheep calm.  It will help if you can move them near the opening and let the dog hold them there while they settle a bit before you try to move them on in.  Watch the sheep.  If you can identify the leader, pay particular attention to what she is doing.  Putting too much pressure on the sheep at the pen will cause them to be nervous and make it harder to pen them.  Sometimes taking pressure off the sheep is what it takes to have them walk right in.  As they make a move into the mouth of the pen use your dog, your body, the gate and your crook to control all exits so that they continue to move into the pen.  Close the gate when they are in being careful not the hit the sheep.

Holding/Shedding Ring:
The holding/shedding ring is a circle about 30 feet in diameter near the handler's post.  You and your dog have to put the sheep in the circle and keep them settled (stopped/standing/grazing) until the judge tells you that you have a hold.  The most important thing to remember here is that you must have the sheep calm as you move them into the ring if you expect them to settle.  Move the sheep out of the pen by flanking the dog around to the back as you open the gate.  If they won't come out, you might have to walk in and move them out or send the dog in to move them out.  Some handlers prefer to send the dog into the pen to move the sheep out.  This is risky for several reasons.  First its a tight situation and one where the dog might grip.  Second, it might not be a good idea to teach the dog that they can go in and move them out.  They might be tempted when you had rather that they didn't.   Another problem with using the dog to force sheep out of the pen prior to the hold is that it might make the sheep really nervous and thus harder to settle in the holding ring. Of course, if the sheep won't leave the pen, you might have to use the dog to force them out.  As the sheep leave the pen, back away to the holding ring, have the dog control the sheep and fetch them to you.  Keep the dog well off the sheep and allow them to settle in the ring until the judge calls a hold.

Outrun, lift and fetch:
The major difference in the outrun between Started and Intermediate B Course is that the outrun is at least 100 yards.  This is usually the first AKC course level that uses an outrun that is sufficiently long to highlight the Border Collie's ability to do a wide outrun.  You should handle the outrun in the same way as suggested above for the B Started course.  Read the course, the sheep and participate in the outrun/lift and fetch.

Turn at the post - initiating the drive:
As the sheep reach you, they should be moved in a tight turn around the post.  The dog starts the drive from this point and takes the sheep to the drive panels.  Hopefully the sheep are coming calmly on the fetch.  If not, slow them down as they reach the handler's post.  The course is usually set up with the drive panels to your left so that the turn around the post is clockwise.  Keep your eye on the sheep and turn as you turn the sheep.  The dog should hold the sheep to you.  As the sheep are facing (their heads) towards the drive panels have the dog walk up and initiate the drive.

Drive panel:
The sheep should be taken from the post on line through the center of the panels.  Use your flank commands to straighten and keep the line straight.  As the sheep pass through the panels, you should turn them (usually clockwise) using a couple of small flanks.  Most dogs running on the intermediate course are not always confident driving so that you will have to be careful not to over flank the dog and have them fetch the sheep back to you before they reach the panels or turn them and bring them right back through.  You should however, be aware of the pressure on the field and be ready to stop the sheep if they want to bolt in some direction after the panels.  Once you get the sheep turned, you should move to the pen and have the dog fetch the sheep to you.  It is critical to get things slowed down and have the sheep moving calmly.  A stop after the turn as the sheep are moving towards you is usually a good idea.

Free standing pen:
The sheep are put in the pen after they are fetched from the drive panels.  Open the gate, calm the sheep and set up the pen.  Use your body, crook and gate to form a wall that the dog can move the sheep towards.  Again with your body, crook and gate, funnel the sheep into the pen.  After the sheep are penned, flank the dog behind the pen to move the sheep out (see above).

Holding/shedding ring:
The holding ring and hold are identical to what is required for B Started (see above).

Unless you are unlucky enough to be the first dog in your class,  you should watch the other runs.  Try to figure out what the sheep are doing.  Where is the pressure, where do the sheep want to run? Why are they not in control?  Watch the other handler's and try to decide if you would handle each obstacle or circumstance in the same way.  Being able to read the sheep and predict what they might do will be helpful when you run your dog.  As far as your dog is concerned, you are the best judge of what your dog needs.  Obviously make sure you walk the dog prior to your run.  If you have one of those Border Collies that gets really excited or tense watching the stock.  Keep him away until when you run.  On both courses you will be asked to enter the field and set up near the handlers post before the sheep are brought in.  This is usually plenty of time to make sure the dog knows where the sheep are.  Hopefully they will be able to see them brought out (this is really only relevant on the B course).

Sending your dog on the outrun:
Judges will dock you for a crossover (see regs) if you use a slingshot outrun, ie, place the dog to the right of the line connecting you and the sheep and send them left.  This shouldn't be a problem with most Border Collies since these dogs will run wider if you take pressure off, ie, set them up on the left and step right as you send them.  To much handler pressure usually equates to a tight outrun.