Photography by Jennifer Prather

A beautiful shot of an ugly place: Here's the scene of one of Robert Moses' most notorious crimes - Madison Square Garden, built on the site of the old Pennsylvania Station. There's still a Penn Station underneath, of course; that's where we came in to the city. This view is looking up 8th Avenue from near our hotel, the Chelsea Star.

As we wandered through Midtown after dinner at Pongol, Jen kept taking shots of the Chrysler Building. Here's one of my favorites, with Grand Central Station in the foreground (and thank God Robert Moses never got to that place).

Here in the 21st century, one man keeps the spirit of Pre-90s Times Square in his heart.

Eleven o'clock found us (Jen, Nora, and me) in the bracing breeze atop the Empire State Building. This is the view Downtown; the hazy light at upper center comes from Ground Zero.

Still looking south, more directly below you'll see the Flat Iron Building, visible in silhouette at right, amid other Midtown landmarks.

The next day, Jen got this shot (among others) of the Empire State Building, looking up to where we'd been.

That night (Sunday) at Yaffa Cafe on St. Marks Place: Though Jen managed a people-free shot, it was actually fairly busy for after 10 p.m. on a worknight.

After midnight Sunday evening, one block from Ground Zero: The crane you see holds up a fire hose, still trying to douse the flames burning somewhere deep in the pile below. A floodlight cuts through the smoke and steam. Behind the crane are the ruins of a WTC building - not 1 or 2, which are completely gone, but another structure - possibly the Marriott?

A little further down Broadway, again looking down a cross street toward Ground Zero: The police barricade in the foreground (like so many) has been turned into a shrine, with flowers, flags, and hand-written expressions of sympathy.

The NASDAQ Building lobby is eerily normal-looking, considering that right beyond the dark glass is Ground Zero.

Away from Ground Zero, the city feels much like its old self. But you can't forget September 11th for long. Reminders come from the shrines at the fire and police stations, the flags hanging everywhere, and the posters of those who were lost.