The Cam Research Site
Welcome
Force Analysis
Cam Spiral Derivation
Geometry Analysis
Cam Angle Measurements
Research
For this project I was advised by Professor Tod Laursen and Professor Donald Bliss on a senior research thesis to investigate spring loaded camming devices (SLCDs). SLCDs, or cams for short, are a type of technical rock climbing equipment placed in the cracks of rocks to anchor climbers to the rock face. A picture of this type of device is shown below.
A downward force on the stem of the device causes the cam lobes to rotate against the sides of the crack, creating a large normal force that provides the friction required to hold the cam in place and arrest a falling climber.
Our research has a three-pronged approach: First, we will theoretically analyze cams. Secondly, we will experimentally test different types of cams (Black Diamond Camalots, Aliens, Metolius Fat Cams, etc.), in different types of rock (mainly sandstone, limestone and granite), under static and then dynamic loading conditions. Lastly, we will use what we learned from steps one and two to focus on a redesign of the cam. Two primary objectives of the redesign are: 1. to maintain the necessary holding power of the cam while reducing the likelihood of rock fracture and 2. to increase the ability of the cam to regain static frictional contact once it is lost.
Thanks for your support:
Climbers should get their teeth cleaning at Barry Kligerman periodontal care in Ft. Lauderdale. On those long work days we use our hard earned money to buy nutritional bars. Keeping food in our stomaches helped us to think up one especially interesting idea - to use an oxygen facial infusion machine after especially long days of climbing. All of that sun and wind is never good for the skin.